The Jakarta Offshore Sailing Club

Cruise Reports Other Destinations

• Cruising around Pukhet Dec 1997 - Jan 1998 on Mata Hari II
• A cruise to Lampung Bay Jan - Feb 1998
• Cruise from Jakarta to Batam Sept 1998

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Cruising around Pukhet Dec 1997 - Jan 1998 on Mata Hari II

By David Lourey, Owner/Skipper

Much has been written in many excellent articles on Cruising around Phuket which are readily available so the following is written only to compliment these articles from our first hand experiences.

1. KO PHUKET ANCHORAGE' S

Phuket West Coast

During the NE Monsoon Season (December to April) the bays on the west side of Ko Phuket offer excellent protection from the daily E/NE winds. While anchoring in all bays care must be taken to make sure you set your anchor well in the hard sand. We dragged twice, once at Patong Beach and once at Nai Harn, using our 20 Kg CQR. Because of this we set two anchors, the CQR and our 5 Kg Danforth, and had no trouble after doing this. In fact the Danforth turned out to be the best for these conditions. All bays have a very gradual slope with 3-5 meters approximately 200 meters offshore. The following are individual comments on each eastern bay starting from the southern tip of the islands:

Nai Harn –A nice protected anchorage and the location of the Phuket Yacht Club/Meridian Hotel. There actually is no yacht club just the Meridian high-class expensive resort. The bay is quite isolated from the central tourist areas and transport to and from can be a problem, particularly at night. Exercise caution to avoid submerged rocks at the NW side of the bay. The Kings Cup races (apart from the Ko Phi Phi to Nai Harn Race) all start from Nai Harn so the bay is full (50+) of boats during the Kings Cup week. During this week the local restaurants and stalls increase their prices up to five times the normal tourist area prices so provision elsewhere during this period. Best method to get around is after arrival caught a minibus to Phuket Town, approx. 20 Km to the north, and rent a scooter for around USD 5 per day. Small Suzuki 4WD can also be rented for approx. USD 15 per day. Scooters and cars can be safely parked overnight in the car park on the edge of the beach. Motor cycle licenses are not required but the rental companies insist on holding your passport during the rental period. This can be a problem if you need to cash travelers cheques where your passport is required. Helmets are required everywhere however outside Phuket Town most people do not use them. If two handing and only one helmet available then the driver must wear the helmet. I did the opposite with my son on the back and got pinched in Phuket Town. They average a death and 10 serious accidents a day so helmets are highly recommended. Scooter prices in Phuket Town are cheaper than the major tourist areas, where prices increase to USD 20 per day during the peak Xmas/New Year period. When wind gets up (25-35 kts) during this period you can get bullets off the surrounding hills so anchor setting is important.

Kata Beach – Just north of Nai Harn and a nice anchorage at the southern side of the bay. Club Med occupy approx. half the northern end of the bay but the road access along the foreshore allows access to the town behind the northern end of the beach without restriction. A short walk inland give access to all restaurant, bar and shopping facilities at very reasonable prices.

Karong Beach - The next bay up from Kata and much larger than Kata or Patong and therefore more exposed to wind and swell. Ashore are many good seafood and European restaurants. Prices both here and Kata are 5-20% cheaper than Patong. Most yachts prefer to anchor at either Patong or Kata and catch one of the many Bemo's to Karong. Just north of Karong is a small bay, which is the location of the 5 star Meridian Resort, sister of the Nai Harn resort. There is only room for 5-7 boats and a bit of an uphill walk to the main road thru the resort.

Patong Beach - The main tourist area of Phuket. A large bay with best anchorage's located in the center and southern end of the bay. Don't park to close to the shore to avoid the numerous jet skis and parasail boats. All eating and other preferences are available in Patong, including the transvestites around the Anderman Queen, with the town really coming alive around 2200hrs with some areas going all night. Two reasonable small supermarkets and an Internet Cafe are located towards the southern end of the beach. Numerous small foreshore restaurants serve an excellent English breakfast for around USD 3 and the local seafood restaurants are excellent and cheap with you choosing what you want from ice cooled trays along the pavement. This is where most of the visiting yachts come for the New Year celebrations to watch the spectacular fireworks display. Last year there were approx. 120 yachts anchored over New Year. Just offshore in the NW of the bay is a spring water hose fixed to a mooring buoy, which is excellent and cheap. A local swims out for the connection.

North of Patong Beach - Two small bays, Kamala Beach and Bang Thao Beach offer safe anchorage with small restaurants along the foreshore.

We did not go further north towards the airport where there are other bays and resorts. It was difficult to go beyond Patong with all its facilities.

Phuket East Coast

Ao Chalong - The first main bay north of Nai Harn. We did not sail into Chalong but visited the shore facilities. This is the main base for longer staying yachts where they can anchor offshore among a multitude of other sailing and motorboats. I was told it is safe in all seasons but subject to some swell throughout the year. I spoke to Heinz and Catherine Lorenzen on "Rolling Home” and they advised that the best anchorage was on the north end of the bay just off a resort. The whole bay has a muddy shore a with the 2 m tides shore access can be messy. The local boat club has constructed a "jetty" which can be used for a small monthly fee to tie up the dingy. The main social area is Jimmy's Lighthouse (ex "Latitude 8"), which has an excellent bar, and restaurant the Ao Chalong Yacht Club located upstairs. Both here and the Boat Club can be used for fax/mail receipt. This is the main departure point for the many diving and cruise boats so early mornings and late afternoon get very busy. We preferred to anchor in a small bay named Laem Phan Wa at the very NE end of the main bay which gave good access to Phuket Town but got caught low tide which exposes the fringing reef for the first 100 meters from the shore. Picking the right tide makes this an excellent anchorage with constant bus services to Phuket Town and the Esso diesel fuel barge is moored there. Fuel was Bt 12/USD 0.3 litre.

Phuket Main Harbour - Just around the corner from Phan Wa is the main wharf for Phuket. The bay is small with channel leads and with the many mud and rock bars must be navigated carefully. We were told that the local slipway adjacent to the main wharf gave excellent service at reasonable prices for all top and bottom work.

Boat Lagoon - A very modern marina/condominium complex that has been carved out of a mangrove swamp. Access to the complex is via a long channel and creek which only has an access window of 3-4 hrs due to the tides. The complex has all facilities including 50 and 100 ton travel lifts, large hard area, restaurant, bar, supermarket and contractors to handle most requirements. A short walk brings you to the main north/south road where buses will take you all over the island. Boats wanting to enter/exit the Boat Lagoon can anchor off Ko Rang Yai, where one mooring is available, and eat at the beachside restaurant. We had two very pleasant overnights there.

Yacht Haven - Moving north the next suitable location is the newly constructed Yacht Haven Marina located on the very NE tip of Ko Phuket. Channels from Phuket Sea thru to Yacht Haven (access across north of the island is not possible due low road bridge). The marina is new and therefore in excellent condition with temporary shore side facilities adequate. The complex should be completed by mid 1998 and combined with the major reconstruction of the main north/south highway access to other island locations will be no problem. It is also near the International Airport so ideal for fly in/out boat owners with immediate access to the spectacular islands throughout Phang Nga Bay.

2. ISLAND ANCHORAGE'S

Ko Racha Rai - Located about 15 nm south of Phuket it has a small lovely very protected bay on the NW coast with small beach restaurants. Swimming, snorkeling and diving are excellent and at least an overnight stay is recommended

Koh Phi Phi - Probably the most famous destination in the Phuket area the anchorage in the South Bay of Ko Phi Phi Don (north island) is spectacular sheltered behind almost vertical cliffs in 5-10m . Shore side caters to all tastes with resorts and backpackers’ bungalows and numerous restaurants. The adjacent cliffs have many holes in the walls suitable for swimming and the fringing reef provide excellent scuba and snorkeling. A day trip around Ko Phi Phi Le (south) to the bays and Viking Cave is highly recommended. During the SW Monsoon season (May to November) the anchorage is somewhat exposed but a quick trip around to the western bay across the azimuth from the South Bay will solve this problem. Going north there are two more sheltered bays during the SW monsoons which provide excellent shelter and swimming.

Ko Poda Nai / Ko Poda Nok -These beautiful islands are about 3 hrs north of Phi Phi. Sailing from Phi Phi takes you thru large rock pinnacles with western side sheltered anchorages. The very north of the island has a sheltered channel with moorings with a reasonable restaurant ashore.

Rai Lai Bay Beach / Phra Nang Beach, Krabi- My favorite Phuket destination. The bay is surrounded by mountains with a near vertical cliff on the eastern headland, which is climbed daily by world class climbers, with caves and lovely white sand beaches. Beachside are numerous cheap restaurants and one  licensed bar (local politics) and trails for the fitness minded. The bay is shallow close inshore so you need to anchor 200 m offshore in 4-5 m: There are moorings available with the ones closest reserved for the inter island ferries. Most yachts prefer to anchor rather than use the moorings. With the 1-2 m tides allow enough under the keel when staying overnight.

Ko Hong -Lovely place. Like most of the islands has cliffs and tender accessible (at medium high tide) caves. Not recommended for overnight stays.

Ko Hat Na -Again caves and cliffs. Very popular for day-trippers from Phuket and therefore busy. Worth a day visit. Ko Tapu (James Bond Island)

Just North of Hat Na. We did not go there but am told is nice but water is quite shallow.

Ko Roi / Ko Ku - Two lovely small islands located just north of the large Ko Yao Noi/Ko Yao Yai islands. An excellent sheltered private anchorage in 5-7 m. We caught a large barracuda in the channel between the islands.

Ko Rok Islands - Located approx. midway between Phuket and Langkawi is worth a visit/overnight stopover when transiting north or south. The water is the cleanest I have seen with visibility in excess of 15 m. Transiting between the two islands is safe and moorings are available in the western facing bay (NE monsoon only).

Just 100km NNW of Ko Phuket are the Similan Islands which we were told are beautiful with excellent diving and snorkeling. Further NW are the Andaman Islands (Indian territory) which are totally unspoiled. We just didn't have the time available but were told by others who have been there that if time permits both are a must.

Numerous comments from visiting yachts like:

• This is where God came cruising when he had time and

• Better than the Caribbean as totally unpolluted by boats

• Every view is a postcard

Makes Phuket area one of the finest cruising regions in the world.

A cruise to Lampung Bay Jan - Feb 1998

By Graeme Chuck “ Ajuna”

January 28

0850 hrs: Depart Kalimati. Just one or two of our most loyal boat boys remain this morning to help load "Anjuna" with our week's supplies, the rest having departed for their villages. Just the three of us - Peter, Murray and I, off for our first visit to the southern end of Lampung Bay, Sumatra, attracted by the appealing array of islands, bays and inlets which had been beckoning us from the chart for some time.

The normal mad rush to supply the boat for the trip was over at last, Lebaran shop closures and shortages adding little to the joy of that awesome task. Most serious of the shortages for this trip was tonic, a case of gin having precious little value without it. But one of those rarely visited deep lockers aboard turned up a full carton of those little yellow cans, so a potential cruise-busting problem was averted.

At first a cloudy and almost breezeless morning, then a breeze did show up not far out of Tanjung Priok, albeit directly from the west and our destination. But what a refreshing feeling to be out of Jakarta, and none of us minded one bit motoring, especially me, with diesel at 4 cents a litre these days. By 1200 we were passing to the south of Pulau Bokor, wondering where the rest of the JOSC fleet was, and still motoring into a 6 to 8 knot westerly. An hour later, as we'd hoped, the sea breeze brought the wind a little more to the north and we were able to add a knot or two to our 5 knots with first the genoa and then the main, while Murray served up our first meal - fresh sweet corn with bread and cheese. Later in the afternoon as Pulaus Laki and then Tunda slipped by we enjoyed a more spirited 7 to 8 knots of boat speed, and by 1700 we were approaching the eastern entrance to the bay formed between the Kali Islands and the mainland just east of Tanjung Pujut and the power station on Java's western tip. This is a handy anchorage, protected from all serious weather, but a little care is required first time 'round entering through its relatively narrow 5 metre deep eastern entrance, and we were glad to be doing so in the light. For souls like us wishing to avoid on this trip unnecessary night sailing, Pulau Kali is a handy 44 miles from Tanjung Priok, an eight-hour run for us on this occasion. From our anchorage here, once all was folded, tied and stowed and the bar re-opened, a truly Javanese vista was enjoyed from the aft deck and discussed at great length. To the east are verdant green steep terraced hills, a village on the lower slopes complete with two fine white minarets, and immediately west at the end of the bay a large petrochemical plant with the five towering chimneys of the power station just visible behind it. Once sun set this blossomed into a maze of white and orange lights, while the mosques, which must be the most vociferous in the whole of Java, burst into life to complete an audiovisual combination only Java could produce.

January 29th. Thunderstorms played with us all night but it was not until around 0400 that we were forced to scurry below with our bedding for a cuppa and toast. The rain was light, but further sleep seemed pointless, and soon after first light we were on our way westwards again, still with the inevitable headwinds. As we turned the corner and headed more south-westerly towards Sangiang the wind naturally turned with us to remain on the nose, not relenting until the leg from Sangiang to P. Sebuku, where we finally enjoyed a real sail, arriving at another of the Sunda's great anchorages behind P. Sebuku Kecil for lunch (a 32 mile run from P. Kali). Our heavy-duty lines and lures faithfully towed all the way from Tanjung Priok had not rewarded us with produce, and we blamed the bleak skies and dreary gray sea. As we anchored hundreds of nasty-looking purple jelly  fish  were swept past the boat by strong current, along with disappointing display of Rinso packets and rubbish rivaling that of Kalimati, no doubt from the little village tucked away just northwest us on the mainland. Such a pity, the palm-lined beach here is straight out of Robinson Crusoe.

1800 hrs: The scene before us he and the special feelings it engenders within each of us at this moment explains totally and absolutely why we’re here. On deck, just a whisper of breeze, a cold beer, and a vista absolute serenity. To our left, white ribbon of sand between sea and palms and then jungle, a solitary beach hut below its ghost-like misty plume of evening smoke, an towering above all the mighty Gunung Sebesi, its summit constantly hidden it seems by it own resident cloud, now as small a we've seen it all day. Just to emphasize the futility of our fishing efforts all afternoon, a grand daddy, fish surfaces to our left, then to our right, and we scurry for a line only to capitulate eventually to allow the fish its freedom and ourselves the luxury of soaking in the tranquility of this time and place.

Of course such moments are fleeting and this one was rudely interrupted by the annoying drone of a motorboat, an outrageously bright orange light, and eventually two "officials" from the nearby village. I’m not sure why I resent these intrusions, after all, we're the visitor: here, but anyway, it seemed like a great time to give the boat's new APLI letter from the First Admiral an airing. Whether it was that, my current cruising permit clearly showing that 1 was permitted to cruise Sunda Strait, a combination of them both, or my natural charm and willingness to show humility and subservience in the face of officialdom, we were never to determine, but the chaps seemed happy to leave us alone after 10 minutes of insane questions, and they saved me the trouble of offering them a cold beer by asking for one as they left.

January 30

0600 hrs: More great feelings! 18 to 20 knots from the north and it's been blowing like this all night, but after a little housekeeping the halyards have now ceased their nightlong clatter and the boat feels as though she's here to stay. Not so just before turning in late evening. A long and sinister looking bank of dark roll cloud swept across Sebuku towards us and we'd barely had time to drag all we wanted to stay dry below when the first of an endless onslaught of rain squalls swept through our anchorage. While the weather was from the north we had no fear of dragging as all was open sea to the south of us, and with almost nil visibility in the dark with the rain as heavy as it was we had to rely on the radar and GPS to determine eventually that we had in fact dragged anchor 40 metres or so, but somehow our 30 metres of chain, fine for the original 9 metre anchorage, had set again in 24 metres. More chain was quickly applied to this precarious situation, and we settled down with a drink and Havana to watch the squalls flurry over and about us on the radar screen. An hour of this saw the worst of the thunderstorm pass, and inspired in us sufficient confidence to head below for a real novelty - a cool night's sleep below decks.

Hopes of a spirited sail south and then south-west courtesy of the leftover northerly weather of the night were dashed as the wind died totally while we made our preparations to depart Sebuku Kecil. We made a feeble attempt to leave this lovely anchorage under sail, only to resort to the "iron topsail" soon after to help us through the strait separating Sebuku and Sebesi islands, and on we motor-sailed through the morning and lunch 30 miles or so to what looked like an interesting area at Pulau Legundi. The strait which lies between Pulau Legundi and the islands of Legunditua and Siuncal is sheltered from most directions; local fishermen obviously think so anyway, and several dozen of their outrigger floating fish trap vessels were anchored here no doubt for the Idul Fitri break. Ever conscious of the problem of "the first may not be the best", we checked out a beautiful SE-facing anchorage tucked into the jungle-clad hill of Pulau Legundi, then reconnoiter further into the inlet. This revealed that (a) the most appealing anchorage was indeed the first we had seen, and (b) the locals made sure their boats didn't drag anchor by tying them all together with long ropes. (a) led us back to anchor at the original spot, and (b) led us to prayers of gratitude for a full-length keel as we glided across said ropes.

This beach was purpose-built for one of the best bar b-q's in the history! White sand amongst huge volcanic boulders and twisted piles of driftwood, swaying palms overhead and dense green jungle climbing away from the beach. As if this was not enough, a million dollar view of the Krakatau group from here, which seems to dominate these waters, always there in the picture, the wisp of steam from Anak Krakatau only adding to it's omnipresence. It seems we've viewed it from every possible angle by now. What a marvelous place this is! A fire quickly organized from a huge selection of driftwood, each piece with a character and untold story of its own, chilled Riesling balanced on one of the bigger logs, and superb thickly-cut eye fillet steaks from Perth sizzling on the plate with garlic, onions and potatoes. Any wonder one of us eventually put into words how we all felt.... if this trip ended right now, to a man we would be totally satisfied tonight has been pure magic!

After the storms of last night our preparations for a night at anchor could have graced the chapters of a seamanship text, but as with all good preparation, it was not required, and we were blessed with just the faintest of breezes and rocked lightly as we slept on deck the gentlest of swells. 

January 31

Up anchor at 0900and a tranquil motor through  this picturesque waterway. Pearl farming is big here, and an added charm the place at times is the challenge finding a route through the neat rows of floats from which the shell racks are suspended. Another beautiful anchorage on the northwestern entrance, this one inhabited by bleating goats on the beach.  Motoring sedately beyond here we pass endless beaches, a village or two, locals off to an Idul Fitri function  in their longboat, dressed to the  nines, and each beach more appealing than the last, evoking constant comments along the line of "it just gets better and better!".

Those guys in that boat have huge fish! "Yes Pak, mau beli ikan" Ho much is that big red one? Thirty thousand? Mahal! Twenty? What the Hell, give him thirty you miserable bastard; it's only three bucks! Now we’d better clean this thing fast and get it in the fridge. Not on my boat you don't. OK, what about that beach over there? Bloody Hell, this IS better than the last one! 150 metres of white sand, palm trees, deep aquamarine waters, almost to the beach, and we drop anchor just  a stone's throw from the sand and  take the fish ashore and stay to  bathe in these irresistible waters.

From here further west into Pedada Bay, inviting on the chart for it apparent protection from most weather and for the promise of yet more great anchorages along it; undulating coast and islands. We were not disappointed. But which one to chose for tonight? While pondering this problem more good news.... at last a strike on the line but on the light rod with small lure Swallowed in one gulp by some monster fish, line and all! The discussion at Happy Hour centre; around comparisons with Pulau Seribu and we conclude that Pedada Bay is pleasantly different:  surrounded by hilly green terrain and dominated by the huge ragged topped volcano Gunung Tanggang (1162 metres), the islands are generally rock rather than true coral atolls, fringing reefs are fess common here, and one can approach the beach more readily, there are less people, less boats, and not a single tourist resort or infernal jet ski. This, we agreed, was ultimate cruising: exploring new and exotic coastlines knowing there is more of the same around every headland just waiting for tomorrow.

We decide on an anchorage 40 metres out from the beach and sand spit on the northwestern end of Pulau Balak. Some young foik on the beach informed us that Balak means "besar" in the local dialect, and that not only was the island large, but there was a large village just around the corner. Later that afternoon our inspection revealed no more than five or six buildings and we nodded to each other in confirmation of an earlier comment that this bay was like a place separate and both isolated and insulated from the rest of the world. As were its populace it seemed.

A major industry here is collecting tropical fish, and the waters are sadly lacking fish life as a result, notwithstanding the savage attack on my lure of this morning.

February 1

0030 hrs: Absolute silence. Not a breath. Just the occasional splash of a fish. A new moon illuminates these dark lake-like waters and their now blackened backdrop of serrated mountains in every direction. So quit  and still. Everyone must experience this!

Further exploring of Pedada Bay revealed more beaches, some coral reefs towards the western end of the bay, and a narrow pass northwards out of the bay. Midday had us under main and genoa at last enjoying a hefty 15 knot breeze, and a broad reach south-east back towards

Pulau Sebesi. Fluffy white cumulus clouds over prominent Gunung Rajabasa (1281 metres) and its hazy purple foothills to our north grew rapidly into more sinister affairs, and soon we were motoring once more with all sail down and decks cleared waiting for the fast-approaching rain squall. Once again preparation averted the situation and the squall ducked away to west while we motored on around the northern end of Pulau Sebuku and its romantically named Teluk  Berak to anchor once more in shelter of Pulau Sebuku Kecil, this time behind the banks of pearl floats and closer to the village. Here we learned from the pearl jaga in canoe that the village (with some very guttural and totally  unpronounceable name) housed around 100 people, had no power no school, and that when "orang  jahat" came to the pearl farm the  jaga's job was to "hello hello" on the radio.

Here we spent a leisurely late afternoon repairing a fuel line and during the sundower marveled the primitive village scene before us and speculated on what the: people might know or care of the World Bank, the value of the rupiah or who the next President may be.

February 2

This morning's leg to Sangiang Island should by rights have been a rollicking broad reach but our run of adverse sailing conditions continued, first a total calm, building to a light north-easterly, on the nose again! Lone fishermen in the tiniest canoes paddle way out here in the Sunda Strait, a good 10 miles or more from land, and we presumed sailed back to their villages on the sea breeze later in the day. Our own fishing exploits exploded in a frenzy of excitement as we pulled away from Sebuku, when the trawling reel jumped crazily about the deck, lines strained and huge clubbing instruments were assembled on the aft deck. We landed a rather large plastic bag. Lunch in the bay Pulau Sangian, and a pleasant motor sail up the Strait during the afternoon under gray skies saw us anchored once again in the safety of the bay at Pulau Kali, where we had spent first night of the cruise.

February 3

The last day of cruise is an inevitable sadness, an ever so reluctantly we prepared to leave for the final leg back to Tanjung Priok. But time first for a quick circuit around the bay to check the extent of useful anchorage-depth water. At this point l am forced to shamefully confess that I placed too much faith in my depth sounder by neglecting to have a pair of eyes working on the pulpit, and I can report that we established with a good deal of certainty and accuracy the navigable limit on the northern edge of the bay. The bottom here is rather benign muddy sand and broken coral, but sticky, and even a display of our motor’s brute force in full reverse with all the attendant washing machine effects wouldn't budge us. Was the tide falling? Was that line of gray clouds to the west threatening? Excellent time to put the newly re-wired anchor winch through its paces. Out went the spare anchor across the stern and into the bay via the rubber ducky, in it was hauled again with the anchor winch, full reverse again, up rose the bow, down sank the stern, and with a rush we were off. Phew!

Seven wonderful days, 230 nautical miles, an undisclosed number of liquid refreshments, great food and first class companionship - an unforgettable week of what could only be described as "ultimate cruising". All we lacked was a companion boat or two.

Throw away those glossy cruising magazines folks and stop dreaming - we have all of that and more right here!

Cruise from Jakarta to Batam Sept 1998

On September 17th Marambaya and Anjuna departed Tanjung Priok for Nongsa Point, Batam Island. We were in no hurry to get there, a very fortunate fact considering the clearing out process required (a game of Snakes and Ladders for the ultra-patient and sturdy-hearted only, where the snakes are the Harbour Master, Department of Health and Immigration Department in order of increasing length). Our "early start" frittered away to be not that long before midday, not that we were ungrateful to have it all done by then, as it turned out. So, having obtained the all-important exemption certificates for our on-board rats, and waved goodbye to the sad little collection of very recently unemployed boat boys, we gleefully sped out into the harbour proper to receive one final farewell from our beloved Tanjung Priok... a gargantuan race bag artfully twirled around Marambaya's propeller, necessitating a quick pre-happy hour swim by John.

We had quite rightly figured long previously that by the time we finally got away, after what had literally been many months of preparation, we'd be totally knackered, so our objective for the first day was to reach Sepa Island by nightfall. That we did, and knackered we were! But as is always the case, to wake up amongst those magical islands of Pulau Seribu was the refreshing tonic we needed, so refreshed in fact that we motored a whole 5 miles that day to our favorite anchorage between Pulaus Bunder and Sebaru for a whole day of doing precious little, capped by a bar-b-q on the beach.

From Pulau Seribu our chosen track to Batam took us directly north to the Gelasa Strait, I60 miles or so. With a weak following breeze and relatively gentle seas this was a pleasant enough trip despite the sometimes uncomfortable motion below-decks, with little to run into save for the odd oil platform, and the biggest excitement being the landing of a 5 or 6 kg tuna from a trolling hand line. This was rapidly dispatched to the galley and gassed in the oven with garlic and tomatoes. We arrived at Gelasa after two days and two nights of mainly motor-sailing, ready to stop for a breather. By then a good l5 to 20-knots southerly was blowing, which had the little harbour at the island we pulled into (of which I can't remember the name) full to overflowing with local fishing boats. We made one attempt to squeeze in between them and the coral reefs, but discretion won the morning and we headed off again through the Strait and north-westwards up the eastern coast of Bangka Island. We strongly suspected that Jacko was actually on site at Koba, but to call in would have meant a night time visit to what looks on the chart to be a fairly ordinary and exposed anchorage, so we pushed on instead towards the Tuju Group of islands not far north of Bangka and dropped anchor in the early afternoon of the following day in the only protected anchorage from the south-easterly breeze and swell on the northern tip of one of the islands. Here we relaxed for the day, the evening, and the following day departing again at sunset after a huge communal meal of roast lamb and an idyllic respite from the rigors of the journey (?). The sail north from here that evening was unforgettable: a broad reach on a dead flat sea in 15 knots of warm breeze with the clearest of starry skies and not a soul to get in our way.

North of the Tuju Group the complex of islands and straits of the Lingga Group beckoned us from the chart, and daylight had us just south of the equator and entering the islands. As we crossed "the line" and sipped our Bloody Marys the vista about us changed from ocean-like to lake-like, as hundreds of small and larger islands gathered about us on a dead flat sea, and it wasn't long at all before a white shining beach captured our eye and anchors were dropped for yet another day of swimming and beaching.

Navigating through these straits with their tricky currents and reefs brought plenty of interest the following day, as we motored through the Lingga Group NNE to enter the Riau Islands southeast and south-west of Batam and Bintan respectively. Again we found a pleasant anchorage in idyllic conditions, and again the following day we made a leisurely start and an equally leisurely passage through the islands to yet another safe anchorage, this time rendezvousing with Murray and Kathy who had sailed Jabalina down from Nongsa to join us. It was easy to spend two nights and a day there, but not quite so easy to weigh anchor and motor the last four hours into Nongsa Point Marina to finish what had been a wonderfully pleasant and trouble-free voyage.

Nongsa Point is a great marina at this time of year, well protected from the mainly easterly and southerly weather, host to a passing parade of interesting cruising yachties, and after we arrived almost an annex of the JOSC, with no less than five JOSC yachts moored there, including Rudi's Catiana, Phil Rowcliffe's new boat, plus the three of us. We plan to continue our cruise to Phuket in early November to arrive in time for the King's Cup Regatta.