The Jakarta Offshore Sailing Club

Cruise Reports to Krakatau

• Cruise report May 1997 on Mata Hari II
• Krakatau to Ujung Kulon Feb 1996
• Krakatau Trip Thera April 2006

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Read some articles about the Krakatau Euption

Cruise report May 1997 on Mata Hari II

As recalled by Dave Lourey, Skipper "Matahari II"

Four yachts was the final tally of participants of the Krakatau Cruise. `Enigma II" skippered by Hans Ryffel departed early morning on the 22nd May with plans to overnight anchored in behind Pulau Kali for the evening with "Anjuna" skippered by Graeme Chuck, "Marumbaya" skippered by John Levings and "Matahari II" skippered by Dave Lourey; departing Tanjung Priok at 2100 hours the same evening. Conditions were a full moon and nil wind so it was to be a long noisy evening under motor for all the boats. Anjuna led the way, having provided the GPS waypoints, followed by Marumbaya with Matahari II bringing up the rear. Despite the noise it was a beautiful evening with Peter Davy on Anjuna coordinating a listening watch/SAR on VHF CH69 between all yachts. 

About 0400 hours a 5-10 knot SW wind sprung up enabling us on Matahari to raise the sails. We motor sailed for a short while then to the relief of all on board shut down the engine. The girl would not slow down so by the time the sun came up over our stern it was Matahari in the lead followed by Marumbaya and Anjuna. Anjuna contacted Hans on Enigma, who had spent a comfortable night at anchor in the very protected water behind P. Kali, who advised he was tracking into the Sunda Strait via the coast following the 20 m depth contour. As Murphy would have it we entered the Strait just after the tide changed against us and everyone started to slow down. We all tried tracking coastal and slowly moving back out at varying depths. We decided to stay around the 40-50 m line with Marumbaya doing the same. Anjuna tracked coastal past Merak to Anyer Light before making the crossing to Krakatau behind Enigma but not before doing a 360 deg turn out of control in the whirlpools arid current washing machine conditions that required vigilance. Our boat speed varied between 1.8 kts close to the coast to 3-3.5 kts in the shipping channel. Marumbaya managed to creep away from us during the day passing just to the east of P. Sangiang and tracking direct to Krakatau. The current peaked at 11.00 hrs and very slowly reduced in strength during the afternoon where we managed a flying 4.3 kts. 

The constant radio work between the yachts kept everybody informed of positions and intentions and was a valuable asset, particularly as it became evident that we were all going to arrive at our intended anchoring location, on the NW end of P. Rakata Besar, at night. We could see Anak Krakatau erupting periodically in the distance but we were making little headway against the strong current. Marumbaya blew a hose, spraying salt water all over her electrics and stopping all charging to her battery. She eventually ran out of power and lights so Hans and Hedi in Enigma, who arrived at approx. the same time, shepherded her via the radio and radar to the anchorage at P. Rakata Besar. Hans Otto in Temeraire II was at the same anchorage with a charter group and provided anchoring directions to the fleet on CH 69, which was very helpful. Anjuna was next to arrive with Matahari the last to arrive at 2015 hrs, 23 hrs 15 mins non-stop from Tanjung Priok. Anjuna already had a sweep organized on the time of the next eruption but like most children she decided not to co-operate and remained silent. The anchorage was quite protected from wind and swell in 5-7 m. with an excellent 150 deg field view of Anak Krakatau and surrounding islands. Our crew were extremely tired so we turned in early.

We awoke to the sound of birds and shore break and took in our surroundings in daylight. Hans and party on Temeraire departed during the night to go to Ujung Kulon. A very picturesque cove carved/blown on the NW of the island with almost sheer cliff along most of the NE shoreline. The jungle has regrown and this combined with the black sand beach gave it a very romantic feel, reminiscent of a Robinson Crusoe novel. Our First Mate, Richard Pearce, swam ashore and encountered monkeys and a monitor lizard along the beach. I am not sure who got the biggest fright. Other crews were busy swimming, visiting and resting.

Anak Krakatau finally woke up and gave the first of three quick "burps" at 1425 hrs. Having waited this long for something to happen it caught everybody by surprise and it was a mad scramble for cameras and binoculars. It was a spectacular sight and seeing it so close from the deck of a yacht at anchor was something special and unforgettable. At 1530 hrs and no more activity we upped anchor and did a partial circumnavigation of Anak Krakatau and P. Rataka Kecil. We observed two small bays on the NW side of the volcano (not recommended for anchoring despite the ringside seat) and a nice protected anchorage (from the W back to the SE) on the NE side of P. Rakata Kecil. in 3-5 m. We cruised back to our anchorage by which time Anjuna with everybody else on board had set out to complete a circumnavigation of the volcano. Everybody was tucked back at anchor before dark for dinner and drinks hoping to see some pyrotechnics from the volcano. She again disappointed us and we turned in at 2200 hrs. We were told by Anjuna the following morning that the volcano again did her thing a couple of times commencing around 0130 hrs the following morning. The noise and the slurred radio transmissions from Anjuna the previous evening indicated they were having a great time, confirmed by them being able to see (?) the early morning eruptions.

Regretfully it was up anchor at 0615 hrs on Saturday morning for the trip back to Jakarta. It was agreed that we would all overnight at anchor behind P. Kali, just to the east of the Straits entrance. With the current and slight breeze behind us our speed to the NE peaked at 12.3 kts and averaged around 11.0 kts all the way through the Straits, an indication of the strength of the current and convincing me that I should not again try the trip against the current preferring to save fuel and energy by anchoring until favorable conditions are available. .

We all arrived at P. Kali by middle afternoon and a lines were rigged between the four boats so the rubber duck from Anjuna could be used as a hand powered taxi between yachts in the strong currents at the anchorage. The crew of Marumbaya joined us for a BBQ after which it was another early night in anticipation of the early morning start.

Sunday morning it was again up anchor at 0600 hrs with Enigma again leading the way. The light SW breeze enabled us all to raise our mains for stability and motor sail at around 7 kts. to Pulau Bokor, where we decided to have lunch and a swim. We arrived at P. Bokor at 1130 hrs and anchored off the South of the island in 13 m. Unfortunately the water was pretty dirty but a few managed to swim ashore and explore. I took the opportunity to don the diving gear and give Matahari a bottom scrub. Considering I hadn't done it for about six weeks I was surprised that there was little marine growth. This done it was up anchor for the final leg to Priok. The wind picked up once out of the lee of the island with 10-15 kts from the NE so we raised the sails and cut the engine, cruising back at 6.5 to 7.5 kts. Anjuna established radio contact with Kersey who advised she had no engine power and would require a tow to her Kalimati mooring. Hans in Temeraire was in radio contact at this stage and he advised he would be at Priok at about the same time and would assist. After this Marumbaya called in to advise she was inbound from Pulau Seribu. Just before the entrance we passed Candola and then unfortunately it was back through the harbor entrance all to quick. Inside the harbor we spotted the visiting Argentine sailing frigate " Libertade" and went over for a look. She was beautiful, even without sails, bringing back memories of bygone days. All yachts were safely tucked in at "home" in Kalimati before dark and when everybody had reorganized themselves they all descended on `Anjuna' for post cruise drinks and general discussion before it was off to Rumah Makan Manila for a seafood dinner and final drinks.

A great few days and a cruise destination that everybody should visit. ( See Hans Otto and/or Steve Rogers for more details ). Our cruise was made even better, more enjoyable and safer by good planning, good radio equipment and constant radio communication between all  boats.

We will do it again. For those who did not make it this time try especially hard to make it next time. I am sure you will not be disappointed.

Krakatau to Ujung Kulon Feb 1996

Friday 16^th February 1996

Friday night departure required a snooze before all assembled and I had 40 winks before Grant appeared at about 2100hrs followed by Graeme and Gordon  (brother of Graeme and newly arrived from Tasmania) at about 2200hrs with a vehicle full of delights from the local supermarket. The abundant supplies of all sorts of luxury goodies, copious quantities of amber fluid and harder stuff were stowed away and we departed Kalimati at 2300hrs.

We departed the harbor entrance with a 10kt SW wind and set sail west on a course that took us south of Pulau Ayer then north of Pulau's Untungjawa

Rambut and Bokor. A few quiet beers were enjoyed whilst we extolled the virtues of the new stainless steel bumpkin, made by Bpk. Yusuf from Glodok. Our pleasant sail was short lived with increasing winds from the southwest and associated squalls and rain. We passed Pulau Ayer close hauled on port tack and then tacked our way west until the wind lightened and we dropped the headsail and motored westwards.

Saturday 17^th February 1996

The light winds continued and so did the motoring as we made good but mechanical progress towards Tanjung Pujut, immediately north of the large coal fired Suralaya Power station at the northern entrance to Sunda Strait. .

We rounded Tg. Pujut early in the morning and continued motor sailing to Sangiang Is where brief radio contact with "Temeraire II" was made and skipper Hans Otto advised that he and his crew of French ladies were heading directly to Krakatau.

The usual strong currents, with upstanding seas and surf breaking off the eastern end of Sangiang' Is. in mid-Sunda Strait, provided brief excitement from the previous rather monotonous motor sail as "Star of the West" bucked and heaved her way past the southeast end of the Island into the calm waters of the large south facing bay where we motored past an old resort with renovations in progress in the far-eastern cove, then classical pillow lava's and pyroclastics exposed in large cliffs which appealed to the geological members of the crew. We anchored in 15 meters of water off the expansive south beach with white sand and palm trees which prompted Gordon and Graeme to swim to shore where at a hut on the eastern end of the beach they encountered the usual ''island security" who always indicate the issuing of landing rights was entirely theirs and they would welcome some remuneration.

The Chuck's swam back from the beach and Graeme began a ritual, which continued throughout the trip whereby he swam, snorkeled or generally was found washing his mask and snorkel near the outlet of the heads when they were in use. The abundance of sparkling clear water only meters away didn't seem to hold the same appeal for him.

On dusk, whilst we enjoyed one of many pleasant evening meals, thousands of bats emerged from the caves below the craggy volcanic cliffs created a mesmerizing swirling dark cloud before disappearing into the darkness.

Sunday 18^th February 1996

An uncomfortable southerly swell developed with the southwesterly wind and at 0030 we raised anchor and sailed off to the west to Sebuku Is. where a "Spanish galleon look-alike fleet" of floating fish traps emerged in the pre-dawn light all anchored off the eastern coast of Sebuku. We anchored off the NW edge of small sandy beach on the northern end of Sebuku Kecil, which is a small football field sized island with lush vegetation a small hill and a perfect BBQ beach. Many local small ferries (Sebisi - Rajabasa on Sumatra) passed, with friendly occupants returning to their Kampung's for Lebaran. With pearl farming expansion from the Lampung Bay area the area was largely laid out in new farms and we had a visit from a group of supervisors in a speedboat before we raised the foredeck tent and went to sleep.

Gordon and Graeme headed off in the inflatable and circumnavigated Sebuku Kecil and explored the coves of east Sebuku, then in the afternoon we all snorkeled over a WWII wreck on the eastern shore of Sebuku Besar. This wreck with it's capstan exposed on the reef continues down to about 50ft below surface and is a mass of boiler pipes with no superstructure, a long narrow hull, and is well overgrown. After returning to the boat we moved anchorage approx. 100 metres to the NE to avoid a wind vs. current chop on the western side then enjoyed a BBQ on the beach before passing out.

Monday 19^th February 1996

After breakfast we departed for Krakatau but first heading north towards towering Mt. Rajabasa on Sumatra then skirted the north and west coasts of Sebuku. There was no wind or only light northerly behind us, which necessitated motoring as we passed the high hills, rugged cliffs and white sandy beaches and their accompany rig palm trees. More "Spanish galleons" were found sheltered in anchorage's of this idyllic tropical paradise which is always a little exposed on this western side to the westerly swells from the Indian ocean to the south. We had glassy seas and a lazy swell all the way to the Krakatau complex of four islands. We motored past the western side of Anak Krakatau, much higher than she had been when we had extensively cruised the area in 1992-1993 when based at Mambruk Hotel in Anyer and watched her pyrotechnics whilst beneath us the water depths varied from 4 meters deep to beyond the limits of the depth sounder (+160m) where the 1883 eruption excavated a huge cavern in the sea bed of Sunda Strait which is generally in the 70ft depth range. We anchored under the north facing vertical cliff (2,655ft) of Rakata, the southernmost of the Krakatau group, and enjoyed a snorkel and swim whilst a motor boat from Carita beach anchored briefly beside us to watch the explosive hypnotic Anak Krakatau. The departure of the sun brought another dimension to her anger, huge eruptions of red hot rocks into the sky falling and cascading down her slopes produced a colorful display a November Guy Fawkes party couldn't emulate.

Tuesday 20th, February 1996

We raised anchor shortly after midnight, after a brief sleep, to take advantage of a westerly breeze, and motored again past the western side of Anak Krakatau. The sortie this time revealed a mobile lava flow identifiable by red molten rocks glowing below a crusty cracking black solidified cap, which was gradually working its way down the NW slope of Anak Krakatau. We turned South and exited the Krakatau complex between Rakata and Sertung Islands.

The wind stayed in the west and we had a very pleasant sail down to the northern end of Panaitan Is.,  the large western island off Java head (westernmost part of Java) and part of the Ujung Kulon National Park. We dropped anchor off a NE embayment of Panaitan (Teluk Lentah) where large expanses of coral and crystal clear water provide very pleasant diving and snorkeling sites. The wind however had risen from the NW and the chop was unpleasant so we raised anchor and sailed downwind, winging the Genoa out, towards Peucang Is. A sail in the far south down towards Java proved to be Hans Otto tacking his way up the channel between Panaitan and the mainland. He was on his  way back to Jakarta with his guests, and we exchanged pleasantries over the radio and continued down towards the narrow gap between Pecang Is. and mainland Java.

After trailing a line and lure throughout the trip, the rubber strop on our trailing lure suddenly became very tight and we started pulling in the thick 3mm (virtually unbreakable) nylon line. A large yellow silver Dorado swam up on our starboard quarter and a large left eye looked up at us as we drooled and anticipated pulling it onboard. The fish had other thoughts and promptly spat out the lure and dived underneath our stern leaving us empty-handed. Our compensation was that the best anchorage in Indonesia awaited us a few miles to the south off Peucang Island where the Ujung Kulon National Park base camp has a jetty and park office, luxury and budget accommodation and a restaurant. We chose our favorite anchorage approximately 50 meters off the white sandy beach in 6-10 meters of clear flat water. This anchorage is always protected as no swell is able to penetrate far beyond the two openings to the open seas to the Nth and Sth of Pecang Is., where even if a strong south-easterly wind develops, the fetch to the Java shore is too short for any threatening swell or chop to develop to disturb the anchorage

We registered with the park authorities, enjoyed a meal in the restaurant, then returned to "Star of the West" sharing the anchorage with a tramp steamer -dive boat and other fishing/ diving / ferry type, craft in the channel

Wednesday 21^st- February 1996

A leisurely morning Peucang Is. walk for Grant and Gordon amongst the monitor lizards, deer and monkeys, whilst Graeme and I cleaned the teak deck of the remaining Tg. Priok grime. Giri &Tonic's were guzzled under the foredeck cover for lunch before a cruise around rocky Java head and its lighthouse into the Indian ocean and down to Tg. Cangkuang, past high rugged cliffs in the moderate swell. We trailed a lure in the hope of attracting a companion of our lost Dorado from the depths of the Indian Ocean, which in this vicinity drop to 1000 metres from immediately off the coast. There were no fish interested in our tackle so enjoying the fresh clean environment we tackled a few more lurch tots on our return to Peucang, assisting, a motor boat with some essential navigational information who had rapidly appeared over the eastern horizon also bound for an elusive Peucang. Another evening meal at the Park Headquarters restaurant and more revealing tales about the Chuck brothers youth which they hadn't previously shared with each other led to much mirth.

Thursday 22^nd February 1996.

We sailed off at 0800hrs on our return leg and on approaching Tg. Alangalang at 1050hrs with the wind directly on our nose from the north we decided to set an easterly course and check on the Grand Krakatau resort which had been promoted at a JOSC gathering the previous year as a two golf course, marina luxury resort complex. Sailing close hauled and on approaching Tg. Camara, the locality of the resort, in mid-afternoon, we noticed a white sail in the distance sailing south towards us. It was Vincent Thierry, son and a staff member on the trampoline of his 14ft catamaran enjoying a sail along the coast. Vincent had a supervisory role at the resort, and after initially anchoring off the resort golf course, we anchored off Vincent's bungalow in the bay inside an offshore reef in

approx. 3 meters of calm clear water. We enjoyed Vincent's hospitality onshore before returning to another Chuck culinary delight.

Friday 23^rd February 1996

Graeme's swimming escapades continued off the outlet of the heads during the early morning post-breakfast ablutions, then we were given a guided tour ' through the resort where we viewed the incomplete marina excavation, the completed links golf course and club house, before we raised anchor and motored north up the coast to Tg. Lesung where Vincent was planning to set up a beach club and a plywood catamaran building center.

We sailed close-hauled up to Carita, sailed around the bay with its huge new hotel development in progress whilst Graeme served up another chef s special. The bay was too busy with parasailing, ferries and jetskis, so we motor sailed on up the coast to Bendulu beach where Grant and I had lived in 1993 whilst operating from Mambruk. We anchored in the fading light at the south-end of the beach, generally sheltered from any swell from the southwest and noticed another huge hotel shopping complex development in progress located in the center of the large sweeping beach.

Saturday 24^th February 1996

At O6OOhrs I awoke in the for'd cabin to the sounds of activity close by and on surfacing found we had been surrounded by a full circle of buoys and their accompanying net during the early hours of the morning. On closer inspection, the noise from the bow revealed a local fisherman in his canoe with approx. 25metres of our anchor chain in his canoe, which he had raised by hand. He was in danger of sinking but was afraid the chain and anchor would get caught in his net and was grateful we had electrical means of raising it from the bottom. We exited still bleary-eyed between two buoys with the fisherman holding the net down with his paddle and motored onto Mambruk Hotel below the Anyer lighthouse where we had breakfast ashore at the hotel and renewed old acquaintances. A lumpy swell developed where we had anchored offshore due the wind against a northerly current in the Strait, and "Star of the West" visible from the Hotel restaurant was showing signs of impatience, so we returned, raised anchor and motor sailed into a freshening northerly breeze on up to Merak, and through the gap between Merak Is. and the busy Sumatra-Java ferry terminal. We continued on around the corner to anchor for the afternoon off Florida beach in a narrow gap between  Tamposo Is. and the infamous Florida resort. After a swim and an afternoon siesta, we raised anchor in the late afternoon to sail around Tg. Pujut, exiting Sunda Strait onto a more secure anchorage in between the Kali Islands and Java. There is considerable industrial development here, however the background of high hills, rice paddy terraces,  mosques and Kampung's make an interesting contrast.

Sunday 26^th  February 1996

With the wind rising from the west we emerged from our sheltered anchorage into building seas, however the wind and seas were off our port quarter and we had a fast sail under full rig, with the inflatable at times surfing behind us in a most unseamanlike manner. We quickly passed Pulau Tunda to port, then before reaching Pulau Payung altered course to the southeast to pass south of the Pulau Pari group of islands onto Pulau Dapur and back into Jakarta Bay with it's increasingly turbid water and associated flotsam. The quick trip to Tg. Priok ° saw a late afternoon arrival accompanied by a large Pelni ferry from the west, and "Mamiri" having a jolly sail around the harbor. We had enjoyed a very full nine days, told many tales, saw a variety of sights and had many pleasant  memories.

 Cruise Report – “THERAâ€